The In-Between Sessions

with Noah Lane, Matt Smith and Patchy

img_2780

words by Matt Smith….

Its the sessions around the big heavy ones that make surfing so much fun, often after a big session at the cliffs i would pop into town with my longboard and have 30 min surfing one of the points with some friends, letting the adrenaline fade away, let my arms slowly stop moving, i find it helps me calm down and sleep at night.

Noah had recently come back from a run in Europe and there was a chance of surfing some heavy waves up the coast, it was a late night decision to drive north. Patchy and I left Clare at 6pm and stopped for some junk food on the way and 15 min later i had pulled over to puke up, i was kind of stoked that it wasn’t just my mind rejecting the junk, my body has learned to hate it too, its not the stuff you want to fuel your body with after all. We got to Noah’s and there was a cracking veggie curry waiting for us. Fueled up and rested the next morning we surfed some heavy waves, it was great fun, to be in the masterless ocean with a 3mm wetsuit on and no booties paddling around in heavy lumps, a friend Dylan really had the day dialed, it was a special day for him too. But it was this little session in the evening and the next morning that makes it all worth it for me, getting to paddle around and smile and laugh and watch ya mates and everyone get a load of fun waves..


Noah Lane


img_2861 img_3062

img_3117img_2927 img_2992 img_3039 img_3161 img_3165


Matt Smith


img_2845 img_3169
img_3004 img_3246 img_3281 img_3285

img_2966


Patchy


img_3182 img_2949 img_2915 img_2840 img_2825 img_2825 img_2801

Save

Save

Save

Save

2 comments

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *