with Noah Lane, Matt Smith and Patchy
words by Matt Smith….
Its the sessions around the big heavy ones that make surfing so much fun, often after a big session at the cliffs i would pop into town with my longboard and have 30 min surfing one of the points with some friends, letting the adrenaline fade away, let my arms slowly stop moving, i find it helps me calm down and sleep at night.
Noah had recently come back from a run in Europe and there was a chance of surfing some heavy waves up the coast, it was a late night decision to drive north. Patchy and I left Clare at 6pm and stopped for some junk food on the way and 15 min later i had pulled over to puke up, i was kind of stoked that it wasn’t just my mind rejecting the junk, my body has learned to hate it too, its not the stuff you want to fuel your body with after all. We got to Noah’s and there was a cracking veggie curry waiting for us. Fueled up and rested the next morning we surfed some heavy waves, it was great fun, to be in the masterless ocean with a 3mm wetsuit on and no booties paddling around in heavy lumps, a friend Dylan really had the day dialed, it was a special day for him too. But it was this little session in the evening and the next morning that makes it all worth it for me, getting to paddle around and smile and laugh and watch ya mates and everyone get a load of fun waves..